Crags With "Character"

Framework

Yosemite Valley is defined by massive, intimidating walls of glacier-polished granite.  Moab is known world over for splitter cracks, majestic towers and endless red sandstone. The Gunks are characterized by gymnastic roofs, horizontals and airy traverses.  These well known venues attract hikers, climbers and packs of tourists, literally, by the millions.  The masses come to enjoy the pristine, natural beauty and the unique character of these national, state or private preserves.

yosemite valley

The Full Spectrum

At this point I have climbed all over the U.S., I have seen a multitude of climbing areas.  I have never come across what I found yesterday.  Riverside Quarry is a unique, urban climbing area that lies in stack contrast to more conventional areas.  The surrounding fields are a wasteland, more closely resembling a garbage dump than a national forrest.  As we approached the near 200' cliff we steered clear of broken glass, rusty scrap metal and various other debris.  It appeared some rather scraggly looking drifters had set up camp in a dilapidated RV at the entrance to the quarry.

approaching the cliff

Diverse User Group

Riverside Quarry is not just popular with the climbing community.  While we were walking to a new climb a based jumper from Barcelona launched from the cliff top.  He was a nice guy.  Dirt bike tracks and horse poop dot the braided trails.  Empty beer cans, broken glass and fire pits are evidence of a teenage party crowd.  Graffiti is another hobby practiced here. Apparently, even auto mechanics, slash chop shopping is a local pass time.

Dodge Ram sans wheels

The Rock Itself

When it comes to the granite itself, I was shocked at the high quality white, black speckled rock that I found.  Developers have taken the time to remove dangerous loose choss, and have bolted the climbs well, as far as I can tell.  Bullet hard and smooth, the style is technical and physical at the same time.  In cut holds pop up just when needed.  What looks like a total mess on the approach becomes fun and legit climbing once on the walls.  We climbed, maybe 8 pitches, all of which were a good time.

Taken from "School House Rock"

Beta

Riverside Quarry is well known to locals and centrally located within the Inland Empire of Southern California.  For me, the crag is an alternative to Joshua Tree.  Quite an eyesore, but with half the driving time and well bolted sport climbs, the Quarry is a solid alternative in cold weather.  Info can be found on Mountain Project and there is even a Guidebook for the area.  Bottom line, this place is worth a visit both for the climbing value, and really, the bewilderment alone.

"modern" "art"

Ward on the warm-up