Saturday, November 28, 2015

WHAT KEEPS ME COMING BACK?


FUCK!

I exclaim as I botch the clip and my lead line falls back down between my legs.  I'm more frustrated than fearful at this point, but my position is precarious.  Clipping this bolt is proving more challenging than it should be.  It doesn't help that I'm ten feet above the last one, balanced on tiny smears and palming a greasy sloper with my left hand.  I need a new rope.  The one I'm relying on today is old and has become too fat to feed through modern belay devices smoothly.  No big deal until you want to make a fast clip.

me myself i

CLICK!

The metal gate on my carabiner snaps shut, accepting my rope at last.  I can relax for a moment then continue climbing.  The moves are thin, the foot and handholds small.  Some are credit card thick, razor sharp edges.  Others, slight ripples or scoops in the otherwise smooth face, are only visible upon close inspection.  The difficulty is consistent, never desperate, but certainly never trivial.
view from base of climb

WOO - HOO!

I reach the chains and let out a victory hoot that J Tree tourists probably scratch their heads at, but nearby climbers understand.  I made this cheer extra emphatic today.  Just two weeks earlier I had found this specific climbing route in the guidebook and decided to give it a try.  The crux is at the first bolt.  I couldn't commit to the move that day and ended up not only bailing with my tail between my legs, but I also blew out my fancy $200 climbing shoes well before their time.

ward

GO FOR IT!

My climbing partner Ward sternly ordered as I once again hesitated at the crux.  This crux move involves standing up on a tiny, near vertical foot chip while compressing two razor blade crimps.  The kind of holds you feel for a few days afterwords.  I was almost certain my foot would just blow off.  Modern rubber is an amazing thing.  Once I stood up above the crux my mind snapped into laser focus mode.  I knew I could get to the top without falling.

josh

"REAL NICE LEAD"

Ward said, in a flat serious tone.  "Seriously, man.  That was sustaino."  I casually replied, "thanks man", trying to temper my excitement just a little.  But inside I was frigging psyched.  Its hard to explain but there was just something about this climb that was extra gratifying.  I've done harder, bigger climbs and don't remember being as proud.  I can't really put my finger on what exactly makes this one stand out, but it does, and it keeps me coming back.



Tuesday, November 3, 2015

Climbing Nerd Alert : New Gear, Books and Films

DISCLAIMER:  If you aren't a climber or really interested in the sport please click the back button now.  This post is for climber nerds only!
let the geeking out begin

Climbing In Popularity

Much like my belly since starting my new job at the pie shop, climbing, is blowing up.  This is an exciting time not only for those folks with financial interests in the sport but also climbers like myself that entered the sport before it really took off.  Even though there are plenty of concerns with too many unprepared gym climbers and environmental impact in climbing areas, there are also positives.  Many gear manufactures are coming out with new camming devices for 2016.  Also, there are a number of really nice looking books and films on the horizon.  The shear increase in number of climbers is allowing companies and individuals to take things to the next level.  I decided to share a few of my recent discoveries in this post.
Iconic Cover

Alone on the Wall

The cover of Alex Honnold's new book is impressive.  In the photo he is free soloing hard, overhanging climbing thousands of feet off the Yosemite Valley floor,  The memoir is going to be released on November 9th.  I already pre-ordered my copy and I wouldn't be surprised if Alone on the Wall becomes a NY Times Bestseller and the most popular book of all time.  Honnold is already well known in mainstream media, is idolized by climbers young and old, and actually has interesting takes on life and climbing.  I can't wait to delve deep into Honnold's psyche, scope the amazing photography and just totally nerd out on this book.  I guess publishing a memoir at age 30 says something about your relative success in life.  \
The Center of the Universe

Meru Sundance Winning Film

Meru is an extreme mountaineering documentary which chronicles the first ascent of a peak named Meru by Renan Ozturk, Jimmy Chin and Conrad Anker.  The film won best US Documentary at the Sundance Film Festival.  Despite being released in theaters for almost two months at this point I still haven't managed to check it out.  The DVD and Blue Ray drop in a couple weeks and I'll most likely order a digital copy at the very least.  Various trailers portray the struggle between completing the route and surviving in a freezing cold, high altitude environment.  The climbers themselves were able to capture amazing footage while climbing the peak and combined that with interviews from family, friends and fellow climbers.  This is not your average climbing flick.  Meru Trailer
Black Diamond Ultralight C4

Black Diamond Ultralight Cams

Yes, I know it seems like the X4s just came out.  Black Diamond is already planning the release of their new cam, the Ultralight C4.  Due out in early 2016, this revised design cuts 25% if the weight per rack (.4-4).  They look sharp and I suppose they are a great option for climbers looking to save a little bit of weight.  According to what I've read, even the smallest sizes are going to start at $90 each.  At this point I feel like the price  is just way too high for me to be interested.  I own primarily C4s and I take care of my gear and don't see myself needing to replace them any time soon.  I'm curious to see how these fair in the market place with the high price tag.  More Info on BD Ultralight Cams
Metolius Master Cam

Metolius Master Cams

Metolius has also revamped their Master Cam to be lighter.  They have added a couple bigger sizes and stiffened up the stem on those sizes.  I own a few smaller Master Cams and really enjoy their value, plus they feel bomb proof.  I'm excited to check out this improved design and may purchase a couple to round out my rack.  At $60 they are more affordable and you won't have to take out a second mortgage in order to climb on these.  More Info on Metolius Master Cams
Spring Loaded Nut Tool

Spring Loaded Nut Tool

When I came across this spring loaded nut tool on Kickstarter, I have to admit, I thought it was the coolest thing ever.  Most trad climbers have been faced with bashing out a nut that are partner either fell on or really wedge in a crack when they set it.  Often, we have to bash the nut tool frantically and in the process scrape our knuckles against the coarse rock.  Sometimes we find nuts left behind as booty, left by climbers who either didn't have their tool or couldn't use the one they had.  Supposedly, this new creation gets around all the potential problems associated with nut removal.  A spring cocks back and basically discharges against the stuck nut and pops it out.  This product is being designed by an Australian and last I checked they were close to getting funding through Kickstarter.  Maybe someday something like this tool will be the industry standard.  On the other hand, this little article may be the last you ever hear of it.

Climbing Nerds Only

Please comment with opinions of the products I discussed and/or let me know about cool new climbing gear and media you have found.