Backcountry Ice Climbing: AMG

 

 

Avalanche Mountain Gully

 

 

Avalanche Lake Panorama

Over the last few weeks Lukasz has been mentioning, on a daily basis, that he wants to hike into Avalanche Pass and do some ice climbing.  I felt like this would be a good experience.  I was up for a big day with a long approach, and an adventurous route.  I'm brand new to ice climbing and just bought ice tools about a month ago.  I have gotten out a handful of times, following friends on mostly WI4 climbs and even leading some easier lines.  Lukasz saw AMG (Avalanche Mountain Gully WI 4-) from across the lake while climbing the Trap Dyke last March, and has been set on climbing it since.



AMG

 

This picture was taken in March of 2012 with AMG in much fatter conditions than this year.  A recent trip report on Mountain Project indicated mixed conditions on the final pitch, which I think served to psyche Lukasz up even more.

Lucasz, Jackie and I began our day from the ADK Loj and followed well broken, moderate trails 5 miles in to Avalanche Lake.  An approach like this made us all wish we owned cross country setups, as skiers were constantly cruising by while we slogged our way in.  Weather conditions were fair.  The sky was 100% overcast with light snow falling on and off.  The temperature started in the mid 20s and dropped as we gained elevation.  The saving grace was the lack of wind which made the whole day a comfortable experience.

The Promised Land!

 

 

The route proper is approached from the west side of Avalanche Lake in between the wooden bridges (hitch up Matildas).  The first few hundred feet are a slow, steep wade, through deep snow slopes. 

 

The lower gully snow slopes

 

There is a short step (25') just below the actual climb.  This can be handled on easy WI3 to the left, or if you are feeling like a challenge, at its steepest section, which was fragile WI4.  Lukasz led this harder section and we all agreed at the end of the day that it was the pumpiest climbing we had done.  Given a second go, we would opt to take the easier path over and get to the main event above.

 



Beginning AMG

 

AMG's first pitch ascends increasingly steep ice, joining the huge left facing corner and continuing to an interesting cave belay.  The climbing is enjoyable and views of Avalanche Lake and the Trap Dyke make the setting of this climb very impressive.  We all had the feeling of doing something big in the mountains.  The acoustics of this area are strange.  Jackie and I could hear the crunch of footsteps and casual conversation of skiers hundreds of feet below us on the lake but communication with Lukasz above was nearly impossible, except for rope tugs.

 

Near the top of P1

 

Everyone made it to the cave without  incident. It was a little cramped for the three of us so I anchored in long with the rope and hung out on the small snow slope in front of the cave.

 

Jackie in the Cave

 

I was half scared and half psyched looking from the cave up the second pitch.  I had no doubt Lukasz would find a way to the top, and it just looked so cool.  What troubled me a bit was the giant free hanging curtain guarding the top out.  This pitch is near vertical right out of the cave, then eases up a bit in angle.  This leads to a thin mixed traverse behind the curtain and then up and over the fragile, barely attached ice to the top.  Lucasz did some serious whooping and sang the Polish versions of several classic rock tunes as he was clearly enjoying the climbing above.

 

 Leaving the cave. 

Hanging Curtain

 

As it turns out the climbing wasn't quite as difficult as I thought it would be.  There were great stances all the way up and the mixed traverse was exciting and interesting.  I'm finding that mixed sections really allow for a lot of creativity.  Lukasz and Jackie both made short work of the traverse, taking a low path and creeping up what turned out to be a short curtain of ice that was actually attached to the rock. 

Happy Jackie Sender

 

I on the other hand, made this traverse a bit more interesting.  I ended up climbing higher, all the way up to the roof.  After looking at the terrain I decided I was going to use a nice jug and just one tool.  Lukasz, who was belaying just to my right, was not giving me a single word of beta even though he saw me doing things differently.  I really appreciate this actually.  There is nothing worse than a climbing "coach" trying spray you down when you prefer to figure things out for yourself.  I thought I had clipped my second tool to my harness but I realized I had not when it began flying through the air, bouncing 300ft down the gully.  OOPS.  Luckily, my beta worked and I got through, topping out with one tool.

 

Missing a tool

 

Success!!! We spent a couple minutes on top celebrating and then it was time to get the flock out of there.  Three double rope rappels got us back to Avalanche Lake. We donned our headlamps for the last two as darkness was setting in.  Another two hours and we had dispatched the five miles of hiking back to the Jeep.  We ended up being out there from 9am until 9pm. A big day.  Absolutely worth it. One of the best days I've spent in the ADK backcountry.  Thanks Lukasz and Jackie. It was a blast!

 

Lukasz has a face.

 

Also: Special Thanks to Stewart's for hot dogs, chili, and, of course, coffee.